Sunday, August 14, 2022

The End

 "Who has not felt the urge to throw a loaf of bread and a pound of tea in an old sack and jump over the back fence?" - John Muir

If you put yourself back in late March 2020 you'll remember we were in a Twilight Zone world. Everything was shut down and there was no certain answer as to when it was to come back. Kendra and I had just moved to Milwaukee that month. She started a new job as CEO of the Marcus Performing Arts Center literally days before everything shut down. I started a new job as Physician Assistant in the Transplant ICU at Froedtert Hospital. 

Certainly a hospital has been a stressful time to work throughout the pandemic. However, I've felt lucky that I still had a place to work and the face-to-face socialization that so many people were missing at the beginning. For Kendra obviously everything changed. There were no concerts. She was the head of an organization that had a mission in conflict with basic public health.

Escapism gets a bad rap. I don't mean the kind of escapism that keeps you from meeting your responsibilities in life. I mean escapism that momentarily takes you outside of your life and situation to help you remember the world is a big place. The world doesn't revolve around you and your problems. And by exploring this big world you might get your perspective shifted just enough to come at your own problems from a different angle.

I had actually dreamed up this trip idea a year or two prior, but this seemed like a good time to do something with it. Some people took up baking bread, I decided to write a blog about a virtual trip around the world. 

So how did I decide where I wanted to go?  I started with UNESCO World Heritage Sites - over 1,000 historical, cultural and natural places. I picked out sites that interested me then I would map out how to get from each place to the next and find other places I wanted to visit along the way. I started where I lived - in Milwaukee. It being early spring, the pull to venture south was strong.  So, I just found a destination that was about a days drive south and started there.

It turns out that my first place was had a certain thematic meaning to it as well as being in the right location. It was Cohokia Mounds State Park, in Illinois just east of St. Louis. It was the site of the largest pre-Columbian city north of Mexico. There were 10,000-20,000 people living there in 1,000 CE - putting it on par with the population of London or Paris at that time.  The places that I enjoyed learning about most were places that had been centers of population and culture at a certain time, but eventually were either completely abandoned or transformed.  As Percy Shelly put it - "'My name is Ozymandias, king of kings: Look on my works, ye mighty and despair.' Nothing beside remains. Round the decay of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare the lone and level sands stretch far away." Or as my mother-in-law says, "nothing lasts forever, neither the good or the bad."

To me the idea of impermanence is incredibly important. Humans are at our most dangerous when we attempt to delay or deny the natural impermanence of the world. As Americans we are ridiculously centered on our own culture and politics as the greatest that has ever existed. Many Americans believe that all of history has been a build up that has culminated in the perfection of the culture and political virtues of the United States. The reality is that we are one of many centers of culture that have existed and eventually we will pass the baton (or it will be taken from us) to someone else. It's not a coincidence that the first place I visited was Cohokia and the last place was Babylon.

But I didn't just visit places that are only meaningful to historians. I enjoy modern cities and capitols as well. The variety of locations that humans have built big modern cities is vast - there isn't a landscape that doesn't include a city with millions of people.  I found that I have a certain affinity for port cities - these cities are usually our most diverse, vibrant and tolerant;  New Orleans, New York, Amsterdam, Hong Kong etc.

I also enjoy beautiful natural landscapes. Only in a natural place can you really come to terms with how much of the world doesn't operate on human timelines or scale. We are one of billions in terms of the human population, but humans are a small part of the planet (although we have the power to destroy it).  I guess if I really wanted to show how small I am I could have taken the trip interstellar - but I needed to have some boundaries. 

At the beginning of this project I didn't know if it would hold my interest this long. I have written one post for each day since March 31, 2020 - 862 days. Early on I realized that I may have well written it on my hard drive - basically the same number of people would have read it.  But that's ok - not everything we do that's meaningful to us has to be meaningful to others.  On the other hand, now that it's complete maybe it will be of more interest. I don't know - that's up to you all.

Happy travels,

Ben

Tuesday, August 9, 2022

Babylon, Iraq - UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Place: Babylon, Iraq

Weather: Sunny skies with gusty winds, 88/115F.

Route: From Samarra 273 km SSE on route 1.

Significance: I chose Babylon to be the last place I visit on this trip. I chose it because it's so iconic that it doesn't even seem like a real place. Multiple religions have stories that are centered on Babylon.  It appears in Genesis, the first book of the Old Testament as the place where a united human race existed, that was then split into different peoples with different languages from the tower of Babel. 

But, it was a real place. It had two separate eras where it was the largest city in the world. It was likely the first city to have a population of more than 200,000 people. The first era was in the early second millennium BC  - the time of Hammurabi, famous for the first known legal code. The second era was in the 6th century BC, the time of Nebuchadnezzar - when the famous hanging gardens were built. In between there were many Empires that ruled Babylon - the Hittites, the Elamites, the Assyrians, the Persians, the Greeks, and the Muslims. 

Babylon is also interesting because it hasn't been a city since 1000 CE. It shows how changeable the world is. Nothing is forever.  Places that seemed the center of the entire world can become obsolete. Not only can they become obsolete, they all have.  

The final reason that I chose this as the last place is that it's in a country that we've recently been at war with. It is in a place that we don't go to as a tourist. It's a place that on some levels we fear. But it has a humanity and an importance as great as any place on earth. It should be a place that we treasure as being a cradle of civilization.  This planet is a complex place. We should be able to hold in our minds that we might not like what a particular government is doing, but still be able to value the history and culture of that place.

I started this trip on April 1, 2020 - a few weeks after everything shut down due to COVID. It was supposed to be a reminder to me - that during a time when our individual worlds were made small, that the world was still big. Unfortunately we have come out of that period of isolation seemingly more divided. Conflict is inevitable, but we can still respect each others humanity and the ability of all people to create beauty in philosophy and art and music and architecture from which we can learn something.  

Website: UNESCO World Heritage Site

Images:

Marduk Gate (from whc.unesco.org)

Recreation of the Ishtar Gate at the Pergamon Museum in Berlin (from chalddeannews.com)


Monday, August 8, 2022

Samarra, Iraq - UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Place: Samarra, Iraq

Weather: Sunny skies, 83/113F.

Route: From Ashur 177km SSE on route 1.

Population: 348,700

Significance: The most significant historical buildings in Samarra are from the Islamic capital city of the 9th century. There is a large mosque and minaret from that era.

Website: UNESCO World Heritage Site

Images:

The minaret of Samarra (from whc.unesco.org)

The Great Mosque of Samarra (from whc.unesco.org)


Sunday, August 7, 2022

Ashur, Iraq - UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Place: Ashur, Iraq

Weather: Plentiful sunshine, 88/119F.

Route: From Hatra 85 km east Hadher rd and route 1.

Significance: First founded in 3,000 BC, it was the first capital of the Assyrian empire for 500 years from 14th to 9th century BC.

Website: UNESCO World Heritage Site


Video:

Images:

Ruins of Ashur (from whc.unesco.org)

Buildings from the very late period of Ashur above the Tigris River (from whc.unesco.org)



Saturday, August 6, 2022

Hatra, Iraq - UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Place: Hatra, Iraq

Weather: Clear skies, areas of blowing dust, 86/118F.

Route: From Erbil 170 km SE on Al-Qayarah-Makhmoor Rd.

Significance: Hatra was a stop on the silk road between Europe and China. The architecture shows both Greek and Asian influence. 

Website: UNESCO World Heritage Site


Video:

Images:

Greek style temple of Hatra (from whc.unesco.org)

Carved heads above an archway (from whc.unesco.org)




Friday, August 5, 2022

Erbil, Iraq

 Place: Erbil, Iraq

Weather: Sunny, 86/115F.

Route: From St. Thaddeus 551 km south on route 3.

Population: 1,612,600

Places to visit: Erbil Citadel (UNESCO World Heritage Site), Sami Abdulrahaman Park, Kurdish Textile Museum, Shanadar Park, Syriac Heritage Museum, Sakura Park, Erbil Civilization Museum, Rashad Mufti Mosque.

Images:

Downtown Erbil (from thekurdishproject.org)

Erbil Citadel (from whc.unesco.org)


Thursday, August 4, 2022

St. Thaddeus Monastery, Iran - UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Place: St. Thaddeus Monastery, Iran

Weather: Plentiful sunshine, 68/95F.

Route: From Tabriz 226 km NW on route 32.

Significance: St. Thaddeus is among three Armenian monastic ensembles in Iran. St. Thaddeus is the oldest, it was built in the 7th century.

Website: UNESCO World Heritage Site

Image:

St. Thaddeus monastery (from whc.unesco.org)

Wednesday, August 3, 2022

Tabriz, Iran

 Place: Tabriz, Iran

Weather: Sunny, 72/98F.

Route: From Ardabil 217 km west on route 16.

Population: 1,558,693

Places to visit: Kandovan, Bazaar of Tabriz (UNESCO World Heritage Site), Azerbaijan Museum, Qajar Museum, Goey Mosque, Iron Age Museum, Behnam House, Poets Tomb, Jame Mosque, Sound & Music Museum, Nobar Bath, Ali Monsieur's Museum, Quran & Inscription Museum, Rab'e Rashidi.

Images:

Tabriz skyline with mountains in the background (from iranview.com)

Tabriz historic bazaar (from whc.unesco.org)



Tuesday, August 2, 2022

Ardabil, Iran

 Place: Ardabil, Iran

Weather: Mostly sunny, windy in the afternoon, 61/86F.

Route: From Takht-e Suleyman 542 km NW on route 2.

Population: 588,000

Places to visit: Sheikh Safi al-din Khanegah and Shrine Ensemble (UNESCO World Heritage Site), Ardabil Jame' Mosque, Mirza Ali Akbar Mosque, Alighapoo Mosque.


Images:

Skyline of Ardabil (from wikipedia.com)

Sheikh Safi al-din Khanegah (from whc.unesco.org)



Monday, August 1, 2022

Takht-e Soleyman, Iran - UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Place: Takht-e Soleyman, Iran

Weather: Thunderstorms in the morning, 63/82F.

Route: From Soltaniyeh 256 km east on route 2.

Significance: The archeological site includes remains of a large Zoroastrian sanctuary that was originally built in the 6th-7th centuries and then rebuilt by the Monguls in the 13th century.

Website: UNESCO World Heritage Site

Images:

Ruins with volcano in the background (from whc.unesco.org)

Area that was rebuilt in the 13th century (from whc.unesco.org)


Sunday, July 31, 2022

Soltaniyeh, Iran - UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Place: Soltaniyeh, Iran

Weather: Mostly sunny in the morning, thunderstorms in the afternoon, 59/84F.

Route: From Bisotun 362 km NNE on route 48 and route 47.

Significance: It was the capital of the Mongol founded Ilkhanid dynasty in the 14th century. It is most famous for the mausoleum of Olyaytu built in the early 14th century.

Website: UNESCO World Heritage Site


Images:

The mausoleum of Olyaytu (from whc.unesco.org)

Interior of the mausoleum of Olyaytu (from whc.unesco.org)


Saturday, July 30, 2022

Bisotun, Iran - UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Place: Bisotun, Iran

Weather: Mostly sunny, 65/99F.

Route: From Tchogha Zanbil 424 km NNE on route 5 and route 35.

Significance: Bisotun is along an ancient trading route. It is best known due to a bas relief inscription telling the story of Darius I, the king of the Persian Empire in 521 BC.  There are texts here in Elamite text and Babylonian.

Website: UNESCO World Heritage Site


Images:

Bas relief of the story of Darius I (from whc.unesco.org)

Text in Elemite (from whc.unesco.org)


Friday, July 29, 2022

Tchogha Zanbil, Iran - UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Place: Tchogha Zanbil, Iran

Weather: Mostly sunny, 76/115F.

Route: From Susa 42 km SE on route 37.

Significance: Founded in 1250 BC as a religious center for the Elamites. There are remains of a large ziggurat there.

Website: UNESCO World Heritage Site

Images:

The ziggarut of Tchogha Zanbil (from whc.unesco.org)

Inscription in Elamite, which is a language isolate - it has no known connection to another language (from whc.unesco.org)


Thursday, July 28, 2022

Susa, Iran - UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Place: Susa, Iran

Weather: Mainly sunny, 86/112F.

Route: From Tehran 681 km SW on route 5.

Significance: Susa was founded as early as the 5th century BC. It is mentioned in the Hebrew Bible Book of Esther. It was the capital of the Elamites and Achaemenid Empire.  It lasted until the 13th century when it was invaded by the Mongols.

Website: UNESCO World Heritage Site

Images:

Shush Castle (from whc.unesco.org)

Entrance to the once great Apadana Hall (from whc.unesco.org)


Wednesday, July 27, 2022

Tuesday, July 26, 2022

Monday, July 25, 2022

Persepolis, Iran - UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Place: Persepolis, Iran

Weather: Mainly sunny, 66/104F.

Route: From Pasargadae 80 km SW on route 65.

Significance: Persepolis was the capital of Achaemenid empire after Pasargadae, it was founded in 518 BC. It was destroyed by Alexander the Great in 330 BC.

Video:

Images:
The ruins of Persepolis (from whc.unesco.org)

Entrance to hall of 100 columns (from whc.unesco.org)



Sunday, July 24, 2022

Pasargadae, Iran - UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Place: Pasargadae, Iran

Weather: Sunny skies, 61/97F.

Route: From Yazd 315 km SSW on 78 and 65.

Significance: Founded by Cyrus II the Great in the 6th century BC, it was the capital of the Achaemenid Empire. The tomb of Cyrus is still standing.

Website: UNESCO World Heritage Site


Images:

Tomb of Cyrus II the Great (from whc.unesco.org)

Inscription in old Persian on a column from the time of Cyrus (from whc.unesco.org)